How we eat vs What we eat

The culinary world is fixated on what to eat, or how to cook it. We’re all about ingredients, dishes and who’s doing the cooking. Oh, and the presentation of the dish. Food porn is a multi-layered thing.
How we eat it gets significantly less attention.
Tim Hayward wrote about the “dark secret but no shame [of] eating off the board”, giving voice to the need amongst some food lovers of shortening the distance between food preparation and eating.
It was as if Tim had reached into the pleasure centres of my brain to retrieve some of my best food memories. The most delicious pieces of steak are the ones I eat straight off the board while slicing. Carving a crispy-skinned, juicy-fleshed chicken is incomplete without popping something into my mouth before the platter is taken to the table.
It’s not as if the forkfuls that I raise to my mouth at table are not delicious, but something has been lost between board and table. There is also the consideration that some ‘treat’ parts of the chicken cannot be accessed any other way than by hand.
The toasted sourdough construction we make for lunch, having raided the fridge for assorted leftovers and jars, must be eaten straight off the board. Done solo, it’s the human version of rumination, an almost spiritual experience.
Food touches us to the core, including parts of us outside our consciousness. After all, our earliest food experiences predate our ability to remember stuff. We record early memories of flavours, textures and colours largely without remembering any of the situations in which we experienced them. What gets laid down is often on an emotional level, which means that our adult likes/dislikes can be strongly felt, generally without the ability to rationalise our feelings.
Could it be significant that much of this happens at a time of our lives when we’re very oral? As toddlers we’re constantly putting things into our mouths.
Let’s just say that taste, or personal preference, is complicated.
The way we eat puts layers of rules and convention between ‘the food’ and ourselves. We sit at tables, with food on plates, intermediated by cutlery and the length of our arms. Adding to the disnature of our eating experiences are the hard, straight edges of the table.
Eating off a board takes us only so far in the process of disintermediation. A bowl is part of a sphere, rounded in three dimensions, a vessel which accommodates a diversity of dishes. Many of these can be eaten with spoon, which is my preferred implement for transferring food to mouth.
Picture the scene; someone is sitting on couch or perhaps even standing. Bowl is held in left hand, spoon (or fork or chopsticks) in right, putting the food into a kind of embrace, more-or-less at heart level. This feels to me to be much more natural than being sat at table with knife and fork.
The bowl versus plate preference also mimics nature, where curves are far more prevalent than straight lines. I may be a little obsessed about bowls; the ones in the image above were custom made as a family birthday present.
The slivers of steak we pop into our mouths while slicing represent just one food that we eat by hand. Ribs, chicken wings and others are much more efficiently eaten by hand. I’m wondering if part of the supposedly aphrodisiac properties of oysters is the method of eating, when they are slid straight from shell into expectantly opened mouth, juices perhaps spilling over chin.
Am I getting ahead of myself in suggesting that a shared platter of prawns, shelled and eaten by hand, is a shortcut to other intimacies?
Of course, I’m presupposing Western norms. I have no experience of scooping up food in a piece of torn-off naan or flatbread. However, I do think we are leaving pleasure on the … um … table if we never deviate from the knife and fork defaults.


